![]() ![]() Assemble connecting rod cap to rod with match marks aligned, Fig. Push piston down by hand until connecting rod is seated on crankpin.įig. Install #1 piston with arrow towards flywheel side, Fig. Lubricate cylinder bores and crankpin and rotate crankshaft until it as at bottom of stroke. Then loosen ring compressor very slightly so that compressor can be rotated on piston skirt while holding connecting rod, Fig. Tighten ring compressor evenly until rings are fully compressed. Place piston and ring compressor upside down on bench with projections on compressor facing up. Oil piston rings, piston skirt, and compress rings with Ring Compressor Tool #19070, Fig. Note: Install #1 piston and connecting rod first. Lubricate mag bearing and lips of oil seal with engine oil and install crankshaft.ĮNGINE ASSEMBLY Install Piston & Connecting Rod V-Twin Cylinder OHV Engine Service Manual Version 1.0 I just hope it's not an internal governor problem.Copyright© 1999 by Briggs and Stratton Corporation I have nothing showing exactly the correct lickage positioning. The only thing I have is the parts diagram from Brigg and Stratton. I'm not sure about the placement of the governor linkage to the throttle in relation to the choke linkage which is also connected to the throttle cable. When I do get it to run smoothly, it dies after I use it for a while. I have not replaced the governor linkage and the spring on it is missing. If I get another spring I may be able to replace it without pulling the tank and carburetor assembly but remove the pully and fly wheel cover and working with a pin nose plyer. ![]() It may be stretched out now because of constantly removing the tank and carburetor assemly. I have replace the spring connecting the governor lever to the throttle cable. If I loosen the bolt on the governor, and turn the screw counter clockwise just a hair, it runs without surging but it runs WAY too fast. If I hold the throttle in place, it purrs like a kitten so I don't think there is a problem with the diaphram or the jet screw but I can feel the governor linkage trying to pull on it. The problem is still the same, the governor is causing the engine to surge. I have replace the diaphram, cleaned the tank and carburetor thoroughly. It is model 130202 0140 sitting on a Magna TillSmith Tiller. I have a Brigg and Stratton 5 horse horizontal shaft engine with a pulse jet carburetor. Others will respond to your post with advice. So let us know if you still think that your govoner is the culprit and needs adjusting. If the engine is running at a reasonable speed at no load and the governor is stuck you could expect the engine to bog down and almost quit when a load is applied because the governor can't advance the throttle to maintain constant speed in the face of the increasing load. If the governor ISN'T working for some reason you could expect a radical change in speed between no load and full load. When you advance the throttle manually you are only changing the tension of that spring which the governor pushes against. Before you start the engine the throttle linkage should be holding the CARB at full throttle and when the engine starts the governor will close off most of that throttle to run the engine at a reasonable no load speed by the centrifugal force acting against a spring on the throttle linkage. If there is no movement it could be that the flyweights are stuck or the little thimble is frozen on the shaft it rides on. That might be hard to see directly on some engines. You should ,for sure, see the throttle linkage move by the governor when going between no load and full load. The governor is two flyweights that move out due to centrifugal force and pushes against a spring that is connected to the throttle linkage. When you put the engine under load the governor should advance the throttle perhaps to full depending upon the extent of the load. In order to adjust a governer you must first know how it works and weather or not it need adjusting. ![]()
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